That’s especially true in the case of the token Indian dish, a clay pot of slow-cooked, falling-apart lamb flanked by assorted goodies: grilled naan slices, fresh green garbanzo beans, microgreens and cucumber raita ($22). Kathy Tran For what it is, though, Imoto exceeds expectations. But it’s not even the best sushi bar on its own street. In a past era, or a city with little competition, Musume’s little flaws and quirks would be worth tolerating. I wish one of the buns hadn’t ripped straight down the middle under the weight of fillings. The bao - Musume serves pork belly and fried chicken we grabbed one of each - are boldly sauced with both a hot pepper relish and a smear of mayo, and the crunch on the chicken is a delight ($14 for two). Two intensely flavored steamed buns round out a meal, which, for two people who drink only tap water, tops $80 (and that’s without the salad order our server confidently declined to write down, and immediately forgot). They’re very good and close to great - a few chives and a few extra seconds of steaming will do - although the trio of sauces, including mustard, are rather eccentric. A special called “Dim Sum” was a set of five steamed seafood dumplings resembling shu mai, filled generously ($12). Speaking of not terrible, the smoked tofu main course, with dainty portions of shiitake mushroom caps, lotus root and string-still-on peas on a squash puree, is enjoyably light, though in hindsight I realize we paid $18 for four bite-sized cubes of tofu. It’s probably the weirdest sushi I’ve ever tasted. Kathy Tran I’ll let my dining companion describe the White Dragon roll: “I took to pushing the middle out of the rice paper with my tongue to get some flavor. Musume even serves wasabi mashed potatoes ($9).Īre they any good? Is the “pan-Asian” fad back? The answers: They’re acceptable, and dear lord, I hope not. This year, two new high-end restaurants opened in reductive celebration of half the world’s cuisines: Imoto (Japanese for “little sister”) and Musume (Japanese for “daughter”).
Now, however, Dallas is seeing a comeback. There wasn’t even time for anyone to ask why “pan-Asian” menus never included food from Muslim cultures. Luckily America’s pan-Asian craze shone brightly in the Clinton administration and then died out, leaving only the faintest memory that, once upon a time, wasabi mashed potatoes were a thing. After ordering from an extensive ceviche bar, dressy-casual customers would scoop up queso with injera and share a case of Foster’s. They could serve empanadas, tagine and clam chowder. tweet this I wonder if people in Asia have pan-everywhere-else restaurants. persist because Dallas investors are unwilling to hand big dollars and downtown real estate deals to immigrant restaurateurs. Let’s go to a restaurant that serves samplings of the cuisines that four billion people eat, and decide when we get there.” Maybe one of the foods enjoyed by 60 percent of the world’s population, but I can’t narrow it down more than that.”
Maybe they were the product of diners without a drop of Asian blood in their veins having conversations like this: I don’t understand how pan-Asian restaurants became popular.
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